A good-looking pizza at a good-looking place
By Christina
Melander
The Portland Tribune Dec 28, 2001
In Italian, bella faccia
means “pretty face,” and that’s
what you get when you arrive at this good-looking Northeast pizza
parlor: a buxom pizza maid who’s pictured on the wood-carved
sign above the door.
Inside Bella Faccia Pizzeria, great light fixtures illuminate sunburst
orange walls.
One drawback to the cool space, open since late June, is its size.
In fairer weather, Bella Faccia supplements its limited seating with
an elegant back-yard patio. Right now, you might have to arm-wrestle
other shelter-seeking diners for a table.
Another drawback, one that
easily could be fixed, is difficulty with ordering. There’s
only a small takeout menu taped to the counter in front of the register.
Additional takeout menus may be on hand; if they’ve gone missing,
you have no time to mull over the choices before it’s your
turn at the register. A blackboard that displays beer options could
be put to better use by listing the food.
Some helpful things to
know before placing an order: All pies are whopping 18-inchers
(there also are daily selections of individual slices). The staff
will deliver your salads and pizza, but you will have to retrieve
your own drinks and utensils.
Bella Faccia makes
significant concessions to vegetarians. Veggie pies outnumber the
meat-laden ones and include a vegan pizza with a roasted pepper-cashew
base and marinated tempeh.
The general pizza menu ranges from traditional
pepperoni and cheese to the likes of Il Padrino, which layers mozzarella,
prosciutto, green peppers and mushrooms over an olive oil-garlic
base, and the artichoke pesto-sauced Aphrodite. Bella Faccia turns
out these wide-ranging styles with equal aplomb, tempting East
Coast transplants with an expert, foldable crust.
Salads impress with their freshness and volume Ѡa
mini is quite a plateful. If you’ve just run a marathon or
something, you might be hungry enough to tackle the custom calzone.
Mercury
August 16, 2001
Bella Faccia Pizzeria
By Wm. Stevev
Humphrey
Pizza can, and probably always will be, problematic. It's odd that
such an inherently simple dish can be so well-loved, yet so rarely
satisfying. After all, at the end of the day, a pizza is just some
bread, tomato sauce and cheese--there are only finite ways in which
to improve it. It's not unusual, then, that large pizza corporations
are resorting to acts of desperation to improve sales--squirting
cheese into the crust, ladling 27 lbs. of meat on every pie--doing
everything they can to put a little excitement into a boring food.
I mean, does anyone try this stuff with broccoli?
As far as Portland is concerned, pie purchasers have mostly given
up, preferring to gather with friends around a disappointing Papa
Murphy's Take 'n' Bake, and wax poetic about the lovely, cheese-laden
slices of New York. And while not even the world's grandest pie
will ever come close to the way an ex-New Yorker can remember it,
Bella Faccia Pizzeria comes pretty damn near.
Specializing in 18''
pies, slices, and beer, Bella Faccia smartly gets back to the basics.
Focusing specifically on the pizza's three main components (crust,
sauce, cheese), this upstart pizzeria ignores the bells and whistles
and attempts to bring out the best of each ingredient. After eating
there five times, I've found the crust to be remarkably consistent
in both crispness and flavor. Roughly thin as a quarter, it easily
has the strength to keep its ingredients on the pie and out of your
lap. The sauce is remarkably savory, with just a whisper of sweetness.
The cheese is 100% whole milk mozzarella that is added with admirable
restraint, instead of being a poorly rendered disguise.
With such care shown for the foundation, it would be hard to screw
up the rest of this pizza. But Bella Faccia takes it a step further
with absolutely fresh vegetables and smoky meats. Get whatever you
want on it; it's gonna be good (even the historically questionable "Hawaiian" which knocked me on my ass
with it's flavorable ham). And did I mention they have PBR? Goddam. Say what
you will; you can't find that in New York City.
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